Warren Rosewall has made his shear webs in a slightly different manner:
1 Cut foam along templates but stop for a second or two at each right angle to allow the 'bow' in the cutting wire to catch up.
2. Lay out the cut foam on the bottom 'foam template' accurately and mark positions on the table.
3. Run a string exactly along the centre line of the top spar cap and mark on each block.
4. Draw the cut line of the web on each block with a set square to the table and cut the shear web line.
5. Cut the spar cap piece (plus an extra 5mm)out of the bottom 'foam template'.
6. Cut the 560mm end wedge from scrap foam using No 1 wing template and some metal straight edges. Support the foam with other scrap blocks.
7. Glue wing blocks trailing the shear web together while putting in the bushes for pushrods using the bottom 'foam template'. Then glue the leading edge blocks together. Push the shearweb cut together (not glued)and line the wing up on the table marks again for curing.
8.Move the leading edge section out the way and shift the back wing section so that the back shearweb comes past the edge of the table.
9.Apply a strip of packing tape to the 'foam template' edge so that the spar cap box does not join the wing to the template.
10. Apply the resin and glass to the shear web section but wet the glass first for attaching for the 'overhang' portion.
11. Shift the back wing section to the other side of the table and bring back the leading edge wing section and lay the shear web in the horizontal plane using the bottom and the cut top 'foam tempates' supported by lengths of angle iron. Apply resin and glass.Use packing tape on bottom section as before.
12. Remove the angle iron strips and the top 'foam template' piece. Wet the shear web faces. Rotate the leading edge so that the two shear webs meet exactly and allow to cure in this position.
We have added this option as pg 15.1 in the manual. The end result is the same so there is no structural difference
General chat place.
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