Pieter Visser's X350

[Pieter001]

Wrapped the spar box, which completes this step of the wing build process
3 times around with 180mm by 2100mm 500gr UD finished with peel ply. My box cir-cum reference was about 68cm, so x3 and rounded to 210cm to ensure a bit of overlap. This was done after 4 layers 400gr bi-ax was put around the middle area of the spar plank top to bottom to fill the flat area where the top and bottom bi-ax cap did not reach. My sections I made 90mm x 200mm and then I sanded down the overlap areas to give it a completely flat spar plank face for the UD wrap to follow.

90 x 200mm area filled in and peel ply as I only wrapped the next day

180 x 2100mm UD for the wrap

Wrapped and finished with peel ply

[Pieter001]

Not much building going on, but moved the wings back to the dolly to free up space so I can start working on the rudder, H-stab, ailerons and flaps. This is mostly sheeting work, but I look forward to getting it done so I can start the assembly, after which my Whisper will really start to look like an aircraft

[Pieter001]

Finally back to work on the rudder. After replacing the VStab fin skins with the carbon ones, I fit the rudder again to make sure of the fitment and the width at the counter balance horn. Thankfully this seems to be good. I did take of very thin layer of foam from the side still to be covered to compensate for the .5mm thickness of the carbon when I sheet it.
Before I can get to sheeting, I trimmed the trailing edge using a straight edge and then sanded it with a 50cm long block to make sure it is straight. This was required as I want to install the trim tab into the trailing edge before I put the final sheet on. So, before I could do this, I sanded the trailing edge and then put a bit of flox on the trailing edge just where the polystyrene was trimmed away to smooth the sharp uneven edge. I did this because I put down another layer of carbon UD, just the width of the trailing edge, but I put the inside edge up onto the polystyrene, over the flox bed I prepared. After ensure a good wet out, I stalled the trim tab using flox, smoothing the edges with flox. I then finished everything with peelply and laid a straight edge over the the peelply and weighted it down with dive weights.
The rudder was put on the polystyrene cradle from which it was cut to ensure a straig trailing edge. I trust I'll get the perfect edge I'm after with a solid trim tab.
The plan is to put another 2 layers of UD over the the trailing edge and trimtab before the final carbon sheeting is done.

Trial fitment of rudder with the new carbon skins. Also trimmed the skins trailing edge so they are equal

Rudder on its cradle and trailing edge to be trimmed straight

Trim tab weighted down with straight edge under the peelplay

Straight edge on the trailing edge for curing

[Pieter001]

Removed the straight edge and peelply and sanded the area to apply another layer of UD. This trailing edge is going to be stiff when all is done
I use packaging tape to protect the trim tab from resin overflow, so it should be easy to clean up for final painting.
One more UD after this one, smoothing out the trim tab at the same time and then the final skin over that.

Trim tab floxed in place

Straight edge on again after another UD layer

Closer look at the trim tab after the latest UD layer

[Pieter001]

As I will only do a single layer of 300gr bi-ax carbon covering over the rudder, I put some UD over the counter balance horn to add a bit of strength.
Added a layer UD on the top over the counter balance horn extending onto the rudder and another layer on the bottom going onto the rudder leading edge.

UD on bottom of counter balance horn and onto the leading edge

UD on the top of counter balance adn onto the rudder

UD extending onto the rudder and to be covered by bi-ax skin

[Pieter001]

I covered the trim tab section that should not be covered with carbon as protection while putting on the last skin layer 300gr bi-ax. This was cut years ago and fitting it again was a breeze. After fitting the skin, I started spreading out micro over the polystyrene, top half first, folding back the carbon. Once the top half was complete, I laid the carbon down and then folded back the bottom half and repeated the process. It took around 100gr of micro mixed to complete the covering, but quite a bit was left in the cup after scraping everything down to a thin layer of micro.

Trial fit of the carbon 300gr skin

Trial fit of the carbon 300gr skin

[Pieter001]

To ensure a good bond on the trailing edge, I finished it off with peel ply and forced it down with a straight edge. The peel ply is good as there will be micro filler used later to finish off the trailing edge. I put toilet paper over the peel ply to absorb excess resin.
On all the edges I used peel ply to finish of the edge of the new skin where it is bonded over the first skin that was put down. This will make smoothing it out and filling it in easier I trust.
During the "green" stage of curing I used a blade to trim off the edge of the skin over the trim tab to give it a straight and neat finish.
The total weight of the rudder, before filling, smoothing and trimming, is 3.28kg. Keen to see the total weight with the counter balance...

Trailing edge weighted down for curing

Peel ply over all the edges

Ripping off the peel ply from the trailing edge

Weight of the rudder at this stage before trimming and smoothing

[Pieter001]

Started filling in the rudder trailing edge with micro and smoothing out the rudder skin. I had my bench vice on the trailing edge straight edge at one point, but it fell over and onto the rudder, putting a few indentations into the skin
Fortunately the micro will smooth all these imperfections out.
The hard work with sanding is laying in wait...

Filling in trailing edge

Putting a thin layer of micro over the entire rudder skin

[Pieter001]

Not much progress to show, or nothing the camera will do justice. I've been sanding and filling the rudder to smooth it out in preparation for painting. It takes a bit of time, mainly as the micro dries overnight and sanding is only the following day, so it is a slow cycle. It is amazing to see how things start flowing into a glass finish as one works through the cycles. I'm using 60 grit sand paper and a 65cm pine wood block, 65x25mm. I'll do one more layer this way, which should complete the foundation, before I'll move onto a 120 and then finally a 200 before undercoat.
I've done some more filling on the window sill recess for the ballistic chute, filling this in. I'll post pictures once I've completed a bit more.

[Pieter001]

Just keep sanding, filling, sanding, filling...

Amazing when it starts to smooth out, really cool, but yeah, don't underestimate the effort it takes

Getting there

Starting to smooth out