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Re: Pieter Visser

Posted: Mon May 12, 2014 10:59 am
by Pieter001
2014/05/11:

Rust proof primed the gear humps. Centred the main holes for the gear legs using the laser. I decided to first drill the 2 main holes for the landing gear legs in the gear humps, as it may not be easy to find the correct position once they are glassed in.

Trial fit the gear humps in the fuss and cut away metal so they do not ride up on the thickened engine mount supports. Cut away about 10mm steel on the corner of each hump to make the fit. Removed all the rust with a steel brush in the drill and washed the gear humps with thinners. Used Dulux Hammer rite No 1 Rust Beater to rust proof and prime the gear humps on both the inside and outside. Put 2 layers over the welded sections on the inside and only a very thin layer on the outside of the humps.

I'll do a little sanding of the primer on the outside of the humps before I glass them in place.

The rust proofing is something I choose to do. Russell advised that these parts are fairly protected and would not generally require rust proofing. As I will not inspect the inside of the gear humps much (no easy access), I thought it prudent to take this step.

...will post pictures tomorrow...

Re: Pieter Visser

Posted: Tue May 13, 2014 6:59 am
by Pieter001
This is the gear humps after it was rust treated and I sanded down the outside only lightly.
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Rust treated gear humps with gear hole drilled
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One can see where I drilled the main gear attachment hole. I used the laser lever to get this level over both humps by putting them on a level next to each other. I then found the middle on each and drilled the holes. This seems easier than trying to find this hole position blindly under layers of fibre glass, but time will tell ;)
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Main gear hole drilled
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I positioned the humps in the fuss, but will make this 100% accurate when I have it on the floor again.
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Hump positions in fuss
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Re: Pieter Visser

Posted: Tue May 13, 2014 7:06 am
by Pieter001
This is the vertical stabiliser with the RH skin removed to expose the inside...
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Vert Stab insides
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This shows the area of the LH skin extending past the rear vertical spar...
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RH fin skin extending past spar
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I chose to put the fin straight on the centre line and used no offset. Instead I'm going to opt for the rudder trim to affect the torque...
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Fin alignment is centred
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Re: Pieter Visser

Posted: Tue May 13, 2014 8:07 am
by Pieter001
Marked and cut the rear spar for the vertical stabiliser. I decided to copy another pattern and not the round circle.
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Vert stab rear spar marked
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drilled and shaped
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fitted with screws
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Re: Pieter Visser

Posted: Tue May 13, 2014 8:13 am
by whisper
The engine mount offset seems to take care of the torque. Straight fin works well.
Looking good Pieter!!

Re: Pieter Visser

Posted: Tue May 13, 2014 1:31 pm
by Pieter001
Thank you, Russell :D

I'm still having fun. The real hard work is almost at an end :lol:

Re: Pieter Visser

Posted: Tue May 13, 2014 3:22 pm
by whisper
Sadly the pastime of creating your own personal, custom flying machine with your bare hands is fast becoming a thing of the past. I guess we live in a world of instant gratification where something that takes this long is no longer attractive to most folks.
But there is still that small, elite group of individuals who can say they have done it :!: :!: :!: :!:
Looks like Pieter is soon going to be joining that group with a handsome looking Whisper X :D

Re: Pieter Visser

Posted: Mon May 19, 2014 2:40 pm
by Pieter001
We flew to Zabula on the weekend with ZS-NBE and had a ball there, but that left me very little time to build.

I did build a dolly to put the fuss on and make moving it around easier. I think the family is more excited about this than I am :lol:

While I have the rust proof primer, I'm putting it to good use and "proofing" all the parts I'm going to be working with in the near future.

Plan to place my Aircraft Spruce order this week for all the nuts and bolts, so I can continue with the rudder etc. Going to be exciting!!
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Dolly
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Rust proof hinges for the rudder
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We did complete all the sections of the horizontal stabiliser, so I need to cut the shear web sections and then I can start to glue it all back together ;)

Re: Pieter Visser

Posted: Wed May 21, 2014 8:24 am
by Pieter001
Limited time to work last night, so I could only mark the horizontal stab shear web lines, which I hope to cut this week, so I can start to glue it together on the weekend :)

Removed 2.5mm of foam to accommodate the shear web later.

The laser level is very useful to get the shear web and hinge lines marked ;)
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Marking shear web cut lines with the laser
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Re: Pieter Visser

Posted: Mon May 26, 2014 10:30 am
by Pieter001
Aligned the leading and trailing edged on their cut cradles on the dining room table. Put packaging tape on the leading edge sections, after I've used screws to hold the cradles in position. Micro mixed to glue the leading edge sections. Found that micro can be applied to only one side, not both. Firmly press together and work from one side to the other. Used dive belt weights to hold them in place.